When Peter Reinhart instructs his culinary students on the art of pizza-making at Johnson and Wales University in Charlotte, North Carolina, he tells them, “There are two kinds of pizzas: good and very good. By very good, I mean memorable.” What’s the difference? “The key to a memorable pizza is in the crust more so than the toppings,” says the author of American Pie: My Search for the Perfect Pizza (Ten Speed Press). Here, Reinhart dishes up four pizza places across America that rise to his crusty challenge. Don’t worry, Chicagoans: You make the cut.
Al Forno Providence, Rhode Island
Grilled pizza is a thing of beauty, and this place invented it. The pie has thin dough that’s drenched in olive oil, then grilled on both sides before the toppings are applied. Nobody has ever done it as well as Al Forno. The owner, George Germon, created this special version more than 20 years ago because he loved cooking over live coals. He also serves up other top-notch Italian dishes, but just munch a grilled pizza at the bar and you’ll know why businessmen stay an extra night in Providence.
Spacca Napoli Chicago
Spacca owner Jonathan Goldsmith opened up this pizzeria in 2006. Within a few months he was making some of the best pies anywhere. What’s his secret? He makes it in the true Neapolitan style, something few places do well. Goldsmith trained to become a pizzaiuolo—or pizza maker—just outside Naples, the city where it all started. Using Italian flour, special cheeses, and tomatoes from San Marzano, he cooks the pie in a wood-burning, hand-built oven for one minute at 800 degrees. Though they’re made like the grandfather of all pizzas, Spacca Napoli pies will never taste outdated.
Apizza Scholls Portland, Oregon
Brian Spangler creates his own dough using just four simple ingredients: flour, water, salt, and yeast. He lays slices of cheese directly on the dough and puts the sauce over the cheese before baking. That helps make the crust extra crispy. Despite being open only a few years, Apizza Scholls already ranks as one of my top pizzerias. Try the bacon bianca, made with whole milk mozzarella, ricotta, fresh garlic, grana padano, pecorino romano, and extra virgin olive oil.
Tacconelli’s Philadelphia
You need to call ahead and tell Tacconelli’s how many dough balls you want. (One ball equals one pizza.) If you don’t, they sometimes can’t seat you. Located in Philly’s Fishtown neighborhood, Tacconnelli’s is a fifth-generation, family-owned Italian restaurant. They bake the pizza in a 20-foot-by-20-foot brick oven that’s been around since the early 20th century; ask for a peek. As for the pizza, you get a delicious thin-crust pie made one of just four ways: tomato (no cheese and lots of sauce), regular (a little cheese and sauce), white (salt, black pepper, cheese, and lots of garlic), and margherita (fresh basil, mozzarella, and sauce). Bring a six-pack or a bottle of good wine and expect a short but worthwhile wait.
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Disagree with Reinhart’s thin-crust preference? This Chicago Tribune article looks at both sides of the debate and finds good points in each, while this site offers a panel discussion on the topic.
All this pizza talk got your stomach growling? Use this search engine to find pizza joints in your area.
Naples pizzaiuolo Raffaele Esposito usually gets credit for creating the modern pizza. When King Umberto I and Queen Margherita visited the city in 1889, Esposito created a baked pie especially for them. The patriotic pizza, with its green basil, red tomato sauce, and white mozzarella cheese, resembled the Italian flag. Today, Esposito’s concoction is known as Pizza Margherita.
